True Traveler: Insider's Guide
True Puerto Vallarta
Nestled into a handsome bay on the coast of the Mexican state of Jalisco, Puerto Vallarta has retained the cobblestone charm of its city center even as hotel resorts sprout on its north shore and ever-more expensive yachts dock in its marinas.
Thread Count
Hacienda San Angel, one of the city’s most celebrated boutique hotels, is located on a quiet street just above the bustle of downtown and features 20 secluded suites decked out with European linens, plus a dynamite rooftop restaurant (Miramar 336, 322-222-2692).
At the Old Town condo-tel Vallarta Shores, perched at the end of Los Muertos beach, crashing waves lull guests to sleep in any of 10 oceanfront one- to three-bedroom suites (Calle Maleon #400 in front of the seahorse statue, 800-228-4552).
The Meliá Puerto Vallarta, is an all-inclusive resort near the marina and the airport that claims to have Vallarta’s largest swimming pool. Parents can practice yoga, play tennis or indulge in an “eco-spa” service while kids play at finger-painting or take Spanish lessons (Paseo de la Marina Sur 7, 322-226-3000).
Food Fix
Alfonso Cadena, one of Mexico’s top culinary young stars, is behind La Leche, near the city’s Hotel Zone. Adventurous plates—try the lamp chops—are as thoughtfully presented as the striking, all-white interior (Av Fco Medina Ascensio, Km 2.5; 322-293-0900).
At Teatro Limon guests can watch chefs work in the open kitchen while waiting for dishes such as sauteed shrimp and salad in a jar, each made with fresh, high-quality ingredients (Callejon del Limon 1, 322-225-2606).
Near the end of the malecón, Vitea is the casual, oceanfront sister to the fancy Café Trio—same great food, better value. Get the eggplant ravioli (Libertad 2, 322-222-8703).
Night Out
Live Cuban music and mojitos are the draw at La Bodeguita del Medio, whose walls are covered in the graffiti of former patrons. It’s a cousin of the original bar and Hemingway hangout in Havana, Cuba (Paseo Diaz Ordaz 858-A, 322-223-1584).
The new 960-seat Teatro Vallarta presents film screenings, concerts and ballet from visiting arts groups; check listings when you arrive (Uruguay 184, 322-222-4475).
When in doubt, just head for the malecón for people-watching; the recently renovated oceanfront promenade is lined with bars, dance clubs, public art pieces, tamale vendors and street performers ranging from clowns to acrobats to sand sculptors.
Don’t Miss
Each Wednesday evening during high season (October through May) the Vallarta Art Walk takes over the historic downtown. Dozens of galleries stay open late serving cocktails or wine, and featured artists are often in attendance.
The Red Cabbage, a local institution in the out-of-the-way Romance district, pay homage to Mexico’s famed artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera with its décor and menu. Reservations recommended (Calle Rivera del Rio 204, 322-223-0411).
Stone’s Throw
The Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens, 12 miles south of town includes more than 3,000 species of plants on 20 acres, with gardens devoted to the pretty (roses and orchids) and the predatory—check out the carnivorous plant collection (Carretera 200 Km 24, 322-223-6182).
To the north, just across the Nayarit state line, sits Sayulita, where mellow surf breaks have been attracting longboarders from around the world for half a century.
The Lowdown:
Pat Henry was the first American woman to complete a solo circumnavigation of the world via the canals (chronicled in her book By the Grace of the Sea). After visiting more than 50 countries, she chose Puerto Vallarta as her home in 1997. Here are a few of her local faves:
PEOPLE WATCHING
I love watching local couples dance cumbia, salsa and tango at the Main Plaza—a timeless Mexican Sunday evening tradition.
There’s also the Southside Shuffle, a festive strolling/shopping/visiting event at some of my favorite boutiques and galleries every other Friday night between November and March (Basilio Badillo & Constitucion, Zona Romantica).
EATS
Go to La Esquina de los Caprichos, a very local, intimate eatery in a charming, hillside neighborhood above the old center of Vallarta. Getting there is half the fun, and the authentic Spanish tapas are the other half (Miramar 402, 322-222-0911).
What $100 Buys You in Puerto Vallarta
An action-packed Outdoor Adventure package with Vallarta Adventures, which includes riding a speedboat on the ocean, a Unimog 4×4 tour and mule ride into the mountains, all before zip lining through the jungle and rappelling down a waterfall (888-526-2238).
A five-hour marine scientist-guided humpback whale watching expedition with Ocean Friendly, complete with lunch and drinks (322-225-3774).
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