The Magazine: Well Traveled

High Country Cool

By Kate Siber  |  July 22, 2010

High Country Cool

Here’s a guaranteed prescription to beat summer’s heat: Head high into the mountains of the American West and cool down in one of our hand-picked towns; destinations where fresh air and a dash of adventure will cure anyone of the midsummer blues.

ASPEN, COLORADO

Little known fact about Aspen: It’s not all about the skiing. In fact, this former silver mining hub turned celebrity hangout not only offers great deals in summer, the mountains are virtually empty.

Chill Out: Follow new resident Lance Armstrong’s lead and go for a ride. Rent a road bike at Aspen Velo (465 N Mill St, 970-925-1495) and pedal nine miles up Maroon Creek Road to Maroon Lake and views of the 14,000-foot Maroon Bells. Nearby, on the Roaring Fork River, Charlie MacArthur, a 20-year veteran of the local kayaking scene and owner of the Aspen Kayak Academy (970-925-4433) offers three-hour beginner paddleboard lessons. Class is held on a quiet section of the river—it’s not uncommon to spot elk and beavers in the cottonwoods and aspens.

Retreat to the new Viceroy Snowmass (130 Wood Rd, Snowmass Village, 888-622-4567), a tony, retro-cool, laid-back hotel with spa and all-season pool terrace. Rooms start at $150.

Key to the town: In the early 1950s, Stein Eriksen and Gary Cooper were the first to sport local Jim Hayes’ hand-wrought silver aspen-leaf-adorned belt buckles. (209 E Bleeker St, 206-393-2689, by appointment only)

BOZEMAN, MONTANA

Bozeman is probably best defined by its surroundings: Bears, wolves and elk roam the mountains and meadows, trout flit about hundreds of miles of gin-clear rivers, and Yellowstone is about an hour away.

Chill Out: Access your inner Brad Pitt—A River Runs Through It was filmed in these parts—at the Gallatin River Lodge (9105 Thorpe Rd, 888-387-0148), a luxury fishing outfit on a 350-acre ranch next to the Gallatin River. Rooms have hardwood floors, Jacuzzi tubs and fireplaces, but you won’t spend much time there: Fishing guides have access to nearly 300 miles of rivers and spring-fed streams and lead anglers to spots where 20-inch rainbows, browns and cutthroats feed. From $1,575 for three nights, including meals and fishing guides.

Or learn to ply the rivers yourself in an inflatable kayak from Montana Whitewater Raft Company (603 Scott St, in Gardiner, 800-799-4465). They offer beginner trips on the Yellowstone River, a wide, meandering waterway with gentle waves and views of the Absarokas and Gallatin Range.

Key to the town: Simms manufactures fly-fishing waders of all sizes right in Bozeman. Find a pair that fits perfectly at the legendary downtown fly shop, The Bozeman Angler (23 E Main St, 406-587-9111).

CRESTED BUTTE, COLORADO

Crested Butte may look, at times, like an airbrushed postcard of a too-perfect Colorado mountain town. That’s why visitors need to see the adorable multi-colored Victorians, jagged peaks and billions of wildflowers in person. Until you see it, you won’t believe it.

Chill Out: Whether or not you believe the town’s claim as the birthplace of the mountain bike, it’s undoubtedly a good spot to try the sport. Local outfitter Colorado Backcountry arranges bike rentals and leads rides (meet at the Alpineer, 419 6th St, 970-349-0800). The nine-mile singletrack Lower Loop, with neck-deep wildflowers and views of the valley and mountains, is ideal for beginners. For an entirely different view, enlist hot-air-balloon veteran Mark Irving of the Big Horn Balloon Company (970-596-1008) for a dawn balloon ride. You’ll silently skim over the valley and up to 11,000 feet where you’ll spot four 14,000-foot mountains peaks.

Back downtown, check into the Elk Mountain Lodge (129 Gothic Ave, 970-349-7533) a renovated miner’s boardinghouse with 19 rooms and daily breakfast specials like huevos rancheros and blueberry pancakes. Request a third-floor room for the balcony with mountain views. Prices from $89.

Key to the town: To identify local wildflower species, pick up a field guide at the Crested Butte Mountain Heritage Museum’s store (331 Elk Ave, 970-349-1880).

PARK CITY, UTAH

Home to three immense ski resorts and the 2002 Winter Olympic Games, Park City might not seem an obvious spot for a summer vacation, but consider this: This vintage mining town 35 miles east of Salt Lake City keeps ultra cool with its thick shady forests and an elevation of 7,000 feet.

Chill Out: Bet you haven’t thought of this creative way to cool off: a three-hour introductory freestyle skiing clinic at the Utah Olympic Park (3419 Olympic Pkwy, 435-658-4200). Wearing a life jacket and skis, you’ll slide down the same Astroturf slopes Olympic freestylers use in the off-season and launch into a pool. For a more grounded experience, join All Seasons Adventures for two- to three-hour hikes through aspen groves up Iron Mountain (435-649-9619).

Home for the night is the Washington School Inn (543 Park Ave, 435-649-3800), an 1889 limestone schoolhouse located two blocks from Main Street and listed on the National Historic Register. A hot tub, sauna, and freshly baked cookies await. From $150.

Key to the town: Not only does local Olympian moguls skier Shannon Bahrke train at the Olympic Park, she sells her high-altitude-roasted Silver Bean Coffee at the gift shop. Proceeds go to Olympians’ training funds and a charitable cause of their choice.

Kate Siber: When not traveling the world on assignment for The New York Times among others, Kate Siber makes Durango, Colorado home.

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