Colorado Ski Guide 2011

By Dana Sullivan  |  November 1, 2011

Colorado boasts 26 mountain resorts and each winter skiers and snowboarders from Alaska to Maine and from Argentina to Norway come to experience its vast array of terrain and the state’s signature Rocky Mountain powder snow. With mountains and resorts to suit any skill and budget, it’s no wonder that last season saw a record 12 million skiers and snowboarders—20 percent of the nation’s total—on Colorado’s slopes.

ASPEN FAMILY VALUES

Vibe:

Families who take ripping down mountains together seriously

For families, Snowmass is the hill with … massive appeal. “With 3,132 acres of terrain, it’s bigger than the other three Aspen resorts combined, but one lift ticket gives you access to all four,” says Jeff Hanle, an Aspen spokesperson. Snowmass is known for its intermediate groomers, but plenty of steep stuff and glades satisfy the more adventurous. And you’ll have a tough time keeping your kids out of the new 12-foot beginner’s half-pipe.

Signature run:

Sneaky’s is a rolling, wide-open intermediate run ideally suited for big giant slalom turns.

Local legend:

Olympic silver medalist and multiple X-Games champ Gretchen Bleiler trains in Snowmass’ terrain park, and she’s lived here since she was 10 years old.

2012 deal:

Check for a different deal each month during winter, mostly of the buy two, get one free variety (www.aspensnowmass.com/deals, 800-308-6935).

Village Highlights:

Grab seats by the fire pit at the Venga Venga Cantina & Tequila Bar for $3 beers and $6 appetizers from 4 to 7 p.m. Don’t miss chef Richard Sandoval’s signature tacos al pastor (105 Paly Ln, 970-923-7777).

Rest up at the recently renovated Limelight Lodge in Aspen, where guests receive two free lift tickets per day with each three-night stay (355 S Monarch St, 800-433-0832).

JOIN THE TRIBE AT BRECKENRIDGE

Vibe:

Friendly. You’ll want to live here with all your new cohorts.

“Breckenridge’s a place where people come for one winter and end up staying,” says Duke Barlow, the sprawling resort’s ski patrol rescue coordinator who did just that when he was fresh out of college 13 years ago. It’s the above-the-treeline terrain that sets Breckenridge apart, he says. What does that mean for skiers and riders? “The wind blows the snow around,” says Barlow, “so it feels like you have fresh snow just about every day.”

Signature run:

The Imperial Express chair drops you at 12,800 feet, the highest chairlift in North America, and the start to Imperial Ridge, an above-tree-line groomed run with spectacular views.

Local legend:

Snowboarder JJ Thomas, the 2002 Olympic bronze medalist in the half-pipe, has competed in every Winter X Games since 1999.

2012 deal:

Buy two nights’ lodging/two lift tickets and get a third night/lift ticket free (www.breckenridge.com, 800-536-1890).

Village highlights:

The rowdy crowd sets up at Fatty’s Pizzeria (106 S Ridge Rd, 970-453-9802). MiCasa Mexican serves family-friendly fare, and it takes reservations (600 S Park Ave, 970-453-2071).

One Ski Hill Place offers convenient ski-in/ski-out condo rentals that range from studios to four-bedroom apartments (1521 Ski Hill Rd, 877-354-6747).

LEARNER’S PERMIT – COPPER MOUNTAIN RESORT

Vibe:

Anything goes and all are welcome, from beginners to freestylers to speed skiers

Perfect your McTwist or Dinner Roll in the safety of Camp Woodward at Copper, the year-round indoor training facility where kids of all ages can learn new freestyle tricks by sliding down ramps covered with slick plastic Snowflex and landing in huge foam pits.

When you head onto the mountain, you’ll notice that Copper’s naturally divided terrain separates skiers and riders by their ability. “You never have to worry about taking a wrong turn and getting in over your head,” says David Roth, a Copper Mountain spokesperson. “And experts don’t have to worry about slow-moving beginners cutting them off.”

Signature run:

Nacho starts with a free snow cat ride (Friday–Sunday, conditions permitting) to the top of Tucker Bowl. From there it’s a steep descent in an open bowl.

Local legend:

Meet Rainer Hertrich, a telemark skier who has skied every day of the year since November 1, 2003.

2012 deal:

$6 lunch at Grand Hall (menu changes daily) and $5 beer and a hot dog at Copper Red Hots.

Village highlights:

At CB Grille the chefs are known for their inventive takes on regional specialties such as wild game (910 Copper Rd, 970-968-3113).

The Mill Club is a one-minute walk to the chairlift and offers both hotel and condo-style lodging (in the base village, 866-841-2481).

THE LOCAL HILL – WINTER PARK

Vibe:

Half of Denver seemed to learn how to ski here, and they’re still coming

As part of Denver’s city parks, Winter Park and its sister hill, Mary Jane, own a special place in many Denver-area skiers’ hearts. And thanks to a series of upgrades to the base village and the mountain, the sprawling resort now goes toe-to-toe with the best mogul skiing, tree shots and near-vertical steeps of any resort in the state. The two-mountain set-up—Mary Jane for experts and Winter Park for the terrain parks and the rest of the crowds—keeps the grizzled ski bums and newbies separated and happy.

Signature run:

Outhouse, an expert-only moguls run with no escape, defines the mountain’s “best bumps in America” claim.

Local legend:

Two-time Winter Olympian, former Abercrombie & Fitch model and star football player for the Colorado Buffaloes Jeremy Bloom honed his freestyle moguls chops on the bumps of Mary Jane.

2012 deal:

Early season deals were priced as low at $84/night with a lift ticket per person. Prime Christmas week deals start at $127/night per person. The rest of the year’s deals are going to be closer to the $84 value.

Village highlights:

Save a little dough on your lodging but enjoy all the amenities with a room or suite at the Vintage Resort Hotel, a short, free open-air cabriolet ride away from the base village (100 Winter Park Dr, 800-472-7017).

After the lifts close, get a little taste of the city at two mountain outlets of Denver institutions: The Cheeky Monk in the village specializes in fine Belgium beers served in brew-specific glassware (970-726-6871) and Lime, home to $5 tacos and burritos to go and $3 margaritas during happy hour (970-726-5463).

THE KIDS ARE ALL RIGHT AT KEYSTONE

Vibe:

If the children are happy, everybody’s happy

Keystone aggressively courts and grooms the next generation of skiers and snowboarders, attracting them to the mountains with off-slope entertainment such as the world’s highest snowfort atop Dercum Mountain at 11,640 feet, disco snow tubing at night and Family First Tracks in the morning. And don’t miss the monthly Kidtopia events, four-day periods each month dominated by family-fun activities and deals.

Signature run:

Wild Irishman, an intermediate groomed run for the whole family.

Local legend:

Head to the A51 terrain park for a chance to spot freestyle skier and X Games champ Simon Dumont.

2012 deal:

Buy two; get three lift-ticket-and-lodging packages start at $92 per person/night, during non-holiday periods (www.keystoneresort.com, 800-328-1323).

Village highlights:

Family Fondue Night at Der Fondue Chessel, reached via gondola at the top of North Peak Mountain, is always a crowd pleaser and kids under age 5 eat free with a paying adult (800-354-4386)

At River Run Village more than a dozen separate lodges create a quasi-base village at Keystone thanks to the short walk from them to the River Run Gondola (off Montezuma Rd, 800-328-1323).

MOVIN’ ON UP – VAIL

Vibe:

Local meets upscale

Many Front Range residents consider Vail, the largest resort in the United States, a “local” hill. You wouldn’t know it from the finishing school the village has gone through in the last few years with the addition of new luxury hotels—the Four Seasons and a Ritz-Carlton among them. “Much of it is in anticipation of the 2012 Winter Teva Mountain Games and the 2015 World Alpine Ski Championships,” says Paul Abling, a spokesperson for the Vail Valley Foundation, an organization that promotes athletic and cultural events in the region. Vail has always been a family-friendly ski town and mountain, and even with the new luxury additions, that aura hasn’t changed. The stream of cars coming down I-70 from Denver every weekend makes sure of that.

Signature run:

Riva Ridge is a four-mile-long run groomed once a week that’s lined with trees and a pitch that varies between advanced and intermediate terrain.

Local legend:

Lindsey Vonn, the 2010 Winter Olympic gold medalist and winner of three consecutive World Cup titles has called Vail home since the 1990s.

2012 deal:

Buying lift tickets seven days in advance at Snow.com gets you the best prices. Or try a season pass like the Epic Pass or Epic 7-Day pass (www.epicpass.com).

Village highlights:

A local’s favorite, the Westside Café is the go-to place for a twist on American comfort food, especially breakfast—Cap N’ Crunch French toast anyone? (2211 N Frontage Rd W, 970-476-7890). At the base of the ski hill, families can’t go wrong at Blue Moose Pizza in Lionshead Village (970-476-8666).

The luxurious Vail Cascade Resort and Spa offer an escaped from the bustle of Vail Village, a heated riverfront pool and hot tub, and direct access to the ski runs thanks to the resort’s own chairlift (1300 Westhaven Dr, 970-476-7111).

RAW COLORADO – SILVERTON

Vibe:

No frills, big thrills.

At Silverton Mountain, every run is an expert-only experience. There are no groomed runs and with a peak of 13,487 feet, Silverton is the highest ski area in North America—you reach the summit by hiking from the top of the area’s sole chairlift, which only delivers you to 12,300 feet. During early and late season, skiers and snowboarders are allowed to travel around the mountain without a guide for $49/day, but from January until mid-April, a guide is required at $139/day.

Signature run:

Delores’, a gullied tree run full of powder stashes.
2012 Deal: Try heli-skiing to the top for $159/ride (www.silvertonmountain.com, 970-387-5706).

Local legend:

Ingrid Backstrom, professional big mountain skier, calls Silverton “a real skier’s mountain. If you’re willing to work a little you’re rewarded in huge ways.”

Village highlights:

Fuel up for your day with a breakfast of biscuits and gravy or eggs Benedict at the Brown Bear Café (1129 Greene St, 970-387-5630).

Six miles from the mountain, you can check into the historic—and affordable—Grand Imperial Hotel, first opened in 1882 (1219 Greene St, 800-341-3340).